Just click at the pictures to enlarge them.            deutsche Version

complete route

3 weeks

6,408 km

4,000 miles



In early May 2006 I drove from Germany through Switzerland and Liechtenstein to Italy and San Marino.   Jayne flew to Naples to meet me, and we visited Pompei, Herculaneum and Vesuvius over a long weekend. Then I drove, on my own again, on to northern Greece, Albania and Montenegro. In Mostar, Bosnia I visited a friend stationed there with the German military (EUFOR). Then it was further on through Croatia, Slovenia, Austria and Czech Republic back to Germany.

Recommended maps:




Switzerland by Kümmerly+Frey, scale 1:301.000
Italy sheet 1 and 2 by ADAC, scale 1:500.000
Greece by EuroCart, scale 1:300.000
Albania by Freytag+Bernd, scale 1:400.000 (the one from Reise Know-How is much better!)
Slovenia-Croatia-Bosnia-Herzegovina by Kümmerly+Frey, scale 1:500.000
Czech Republic by Freytag+Bernd, scale 1:300.000
Guide books:



Lonely Planet Italy
Lonely Planet Greece
Lonely Planet Croatia
Lonely Planet Slovenia
Lonely Planet Eastern Europe
General information


Click for Tirana, Albania Forecast





My appartment while planning
This is what my living room looked like while planning the trip!


The best time for such a trip is May/June and September/October. But in the Spring or the Fall you do risk that some passes in the Alps are closed. In summer it is much to hot. I already found by mid of May temperatures of more than 30°C (90°F).

Riding a motorcycle in Italy is one of the most dangerous things that I have experienced on my trips so far! The Italians just don't accept motorcycles (or Germans?). Every day they tried to push me off the road many times, NOT by mistake, and with no reason! Italy on a motorcycle? Never again!

The following is not written for Austria, Italy and other established tourist countries I crossed.

Whether or not you need a visa for such a trip depends on where you are from (I, as a German, didn't need one), so best check with your Government or Embassy. An international drivers license isn't absolutely necessary, but it is recommended (because it standardizes license info and presents it in several languages).

Language: English isn't of much help in most of the countries I visited; Italian and German is spoken more often. Especially in Bosnia, many people speak at least a little German, because many of them where in Germany as refugees during the war. But even if one can't find a common language, one can manage, because the locals really try to help.

Safety: Everybody said I would be crazy to do this trip because of safety concerns, and I have to admit that I was a bit nervous. Mostly, I feared my bike would get stolen, but that can happen everywhere. I took more locks than normal and was careful where I parked my bike -- I tried to always park where I could see my bike when in a restaurant, it was right next to my tent while camping, and I did my best to always lock it to something else. My motorcycle was unattended and out of my site and hearing only at certain historic sites where I had no choice but to leave it while I toured on foot.
There are still minefields all over Bosnia and also in the backcountry of Croatia. Unfortunately the warning signs are often taken as souvenirs, so it's best to stay on paved roads. There are also explosive traps in and around bombed out buildings, so don't enter them and don't pick anything up!
I found the locals very friendly and helpful. And since I didn't bother the Mafia, which is supposedly very strong there, I felt safe and had a good time!

Getting gas/petrol: There are plenty of gas/petrol stations in all of the visited countries, but many close at about 5 p.m. The quality of the gas/petrol seemed to be fine -- at least I didn't have any problems.

Speed limits: In the countries of former Yugoslavia and Albania they obviously retrained the snipers, and so they now operate radar-guns. Everywhere where they have new, good roads, there are policemen trying to raise the income of the country. But they wear bright orange or yellow vests, and so they can usually be seen from far away.

Liechtenstein The highest point in Liechtenstein that one can drive to (at that time). The road there is nice, but there isn't much to see in this country.
Switzerland I had a bit of bad luck with the weather in Switzerland. Nearly all passes where closed because of heavy snowfall.
San Marino There also isn't much to see in San Marino, except this castle. But there where many tourist busses parked there, so I turned around and drove on.
Rimini / Italy At the beach of Rimini, Italy there are "nice" rows of stands for beach umbrellas, almost right up against each other. Even if it had been better weather, I would NOT have stayed! No way!

Motorcycle aluminum panniers and top cases

Made by an experienced motorcycle traveller.

Motorcycle Aluminium Pannier

Motorcycle Aluminium Top case

Motorcycle Aluminum Top box

Panniers available in 40l and 33l
Top boxs available in 20l and 36l
Silver/Grey or Black

Motorcycle Aluminium Top box

Motorcycle Aluminum Trunk

Motorcycle Aluminum Top case

Quality is essential, not only on a RTW tour.